Ngu Dai Pagoda - a sacred place, an important position in Truc Lam Zen sect

Among them, Ngu Dai Pagoda, together with the pagoda system in Yen Tu, Quynh Lam, Ngoa Van (Quang Ninh); Thanh Mai, Con Son (Hai Duong) and Vinh Nghiem, Ma Yen, Am Vai, Kham Lang... (Bac Giang) have created a brilliant Truc Lam Yen Tu Buddhist triangle.

First Wutai…

The 2019-2020 archaeological excavations at Ngu Dai Pagoda (Hoang Tien Ward, Chi Linh City) discovered foundations and artifacts from the Tran Dynasty (13th, 14th centuries), the post-Le Dynasty (17th, 18th centuries) and lasting until the Nguyen Dynasty (19th, 20th centuries).

Located at the foot of Dong Thoc mountain, in the Ngu Dai Son area, Ngu Dai pagoda (Kim Quang Tu) was built by Truc Lam Zen sect under the reign of King Tran Minh Tong (1320) and restored during the Le and Nguyen dynasties. Over time and many historical changes, the pagoda was severely damaged. In 2003, the people rebuilt the pagoda, including 5 front rooms, 2 back rooms, and rooms for worshiping the mother goddess...

Although time has eroded, today we can still imagine the space and landscape of the pagoda from its early days. The pagoda was built in a canyon, surrounded by mountains on all sides. In front is the Ba Doi range, flat as a screen. Backing it is Dong Thoc mountain, above is Bat Huong mountain and further away is Cong Troi. On both sides are two mountain ranges stretching out to form a throne position, on the right is Hang Khanh (or Khach) range, on the left is Hang Man (or Mau) stream. With this layout, Ngu Dai pagoda holds the central position of the Buddhist place, strictly following the philosophy of feng shui, suitable and similar to the space of Truc Lam Buddhist pagodas and towers that we still see widely present in the Northeast region today.

According to the National Museum of History, the ancient Ngu Dai Son area had many sacred temples, with hundreds of rooms scattered from the foot to the top of Dong Thoc Mountain, Heaven's Gate... such as Ham Long Pagoda, Bat Huong, Hang Pheo... making Ngu Dai Son the most sacred place.

With the immense landscape, historical and cultural values ​​of the Ngu Dai Pagoda and Ngu Dai Son relics and to have more specific and complete scientific data to serve the planning, conservation, restoration and promotion of the relics' values, from mid-August 2019 to the end of June 2020, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Hai Duong province and the National Museum of History coordinated to investigate, survey, explore and excavate.

With an area of ​​over 1,200 m², scientists have discovered 4 overlapping architectural layers, belonging to 4 stages of construction, restoration and transformation of the relic. The ground plan, scale and structure of Ngu Dai pagoda through historical periods have been determined, lasting from the beginning of the 14th century (Tran Dynasty) to the beginning of the 20th century (Nguyen Dynasty). Excavations have also recovered a large number of types of relics, including architectural materials and worship objects, household items, contributing to the research and dating of the relic through historical periods.

Excavation results confirm that during the Tran Dynasty, Ngu Dai Pagoda was built at the foot of Dong Thoc Mountain, consisting of two rectangular architectural units located 16 m apart, facing southwest (20 degrees to the west). The first architectural unit is located right behind the current pagoda, with a rectangular plan, about 21 m long and 7 m wide. The second architectural unit is located behind, right at the foot of Dong Thoc Mountain, and also has a rectangular plan, 24 m long and 10 m wide.

According to the history of the relics and folklore, Ngu Dai Pagoda is one of the pagodas of the Truc Lam Zen Buddhist sect and has a close relationship with the pagoda system in Yen Tu, Quynh Lam, Ngoa Van (Quang Ninh) as well as Thanh Mai, Con Son (Hai Duong) and Vinh Nghiem, Ma Yen, Am Vai, Kham Lang... (Bac Giang), forming a "Truc Lam Yen Tu Buddhist triangle" that developed brilliantly. This is important information, helpful for the process of learning and researching about the distribution space of the Truc Lam Yen Tu Buddhist pagoda and tower relic system as well as security and defense issues of Dai Viet nation during the Tran Dynasty.

During the Le Trung Hung period in the early 17th century, excavation results showed that Ngu Dai Pagoda continued to receive attention and large-scale investment from the royal court, mandarins and the aristocracy of the Le - Trinh period. The pagoda was designed, restored and newly built right on the location of the Tran Dynasty pagoda.

The stele inscription “Tu tao Ngu Dai Son Kim Quang Tu bi minh” carved in the reign of King Le Kinh Tong, Nham Ty year, Hoang Dinh year 13 (1612) still preserved at the pagoda states: "In the early 17th century, the pagoda restored the upper hall - expanded the front hall - added a Buddha statue - the appearance of jade and gold...". With its new scale and appearance, at that time, in the people's minds, Ngu Dai Pagoda "surpassed Yen Tu"; it was a place where "Dukes and marquises were bustling - The royal court visited - The royal court ceremonial robes - The king helped the jade palace - Fame and career were bright - Glorious career...". The saying: "First Ngu Dai, second Yen Tu" passed down by the people probably also originated from the majesty and splendor of Ngu Dai Pagoda after this restoration.

During the Nguyen Dynasty, with many historical changes, economic conditions became increasingly difficult, so investment in construction and restoration of the pagoda was reduced. At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, the pagoda only had guest houses at the foot of the mountain, which were used as a place of worship. Later, due to heavy rain and humidity all year round, in 1936, people moved up to build on a smaller scale like the current location.

Highlighting the value of Ngu Dai Pagoda

Based on scientific arguments and relic history, in mid-May 2023, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Hai Duong coordinated to organize a scientific workshop on the plan to preserve, restore and reconstruct Ngu Dai Pagoda.

There is an opinion that it is necessary to soon have a master plan for the entire Ngu Dai Son area, in which Ngu Dai Pagoda is the center. It is possible to expand the conservation space from the top of Cong Troi Mountain (about 530 m high) to the foot of Dong Thoc Mountain and through Ba Doi Mountain, creating a complex of cultural and spiritual relics, which have been gifted by nature, built by our ancestors and are famous in history.

During the process of expanding the investigation and survey in the areas surrounding Ngu Dai Pagoda, scientists discovered many locations with vestiges of pagodas and towers from the Tran, Le and Nguyen dynasties distributed on the mountain ranges behind Ngu Dai Pagoda, which is helpful for the process of recognizing the scale and spatial distribution of the Buddhist pagoda and tower relic system in the Ngu Dai Son area. Therefore, in order to serve more effectively the work of planning, preserving and restoring relics, it is necessary to continue investing in research and archaeological excavations to clearly determine the ground, scale, structure and chronological evolution of pagoda and tower architectural works in the areas. This increases the scientific, historical and cultural value, creating the basis for planning and creating a spiritual tourism and resort space here.

Regarding the restoration and embellishment of Ngu Dai Pagoda, the excavation results have completely revealed the architectural plan of the pagoda through the stages. Therefore, in order to restore the ancient space of the relic as well as create a highlight as the center of the entire planning area, it is necessary to study the design, restoration and embellishment of the pagoda to its true caliber. Scientists have proposed choosing the architectural plan of the pagoda during the Le Trung Hung period (early 17th century), with the style of "inner public and outer private" to design the restoration. This is a large-scale architectural plan, the foundation remains are quite complete, the scale and structure of the works can be clearly determined, and it is also the period when Ngu Dai Pagoda was recognized and praised for its grandeur and magnificence, attracting the attention of the majority of classes from the nobility to the working people...

Ngu Dai Son in general and Ngu Dai Pagoda in particular have been enriching the precious historical and cultural heritage of Chi Linh and Hai Duong. Not only is it a component part of the Truc Lam Zen sect, this relic site is an important physical evidence, providing scientific, accurate and complete data, which is extremely necessary in the process of UNESCO considering the recognition of the Yen Tu - Vinh Nghiem - Con Son, Kiep Bac relic complex in the three provinces of Quang Ninh, Hai Duong and Bac Giang as a world cultural heritage.

At the end of September 2023, Hai Duong received funding and started the renovation and embellishment of the gate and bell tower of Ngu Dai Pagoda. The construction items will be built in harmony, in accordance with traditional architecture, in accordance with the general landscape space; this is the premise for the renovation and embellishment of the next items of the relic site to match the scale and stature of this place.

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Beautiful scenery behind Ngu Dai Pagoda

Coming to Ngu Dai without climbing the mountain to visit the landscape is considered not having been there because behind the quiet temple scene are majestic mountains, countless beautiful scenes that few people have ever set foot on.

Climbing to the top of Dong Thoc Mountain, visitors will be amazed to see a vast, vast space, with mountains and hills opening up before their eyes. Up high is the Heaven Gate, the highest peak in the Ngu Dai range with an altitude of 531 m. Standing on the Heaven Gate on a clear day, you can see all the way to Do Son (Hai Phong), Ha Long Bay (Quang Ninh). As the crow flies, the Heaven Gate peak is right in front of your eyes, but the road is quite dangerous.

The peaks of the Five Terraces overlap: Pile of Rice, Incense Bowl, and Chin.
Couple, O Lon, Cong Troi. Along the way up the mountain, many kinds of wild flowers are blooming beautifully, bees and butterflies are flying around like embroidered silk strips. There are mountain slopes where white flowers bloom, giving off a strong fragrance…